Back To The East Caribbean We Go...!

Back to the East Caribbean. That's the decision we have made as to where we will spend next hurricane season. It's not been an easy decision to make, not least because of finances but also because of our very indecisive minds with so many places we wish to go and so many factors to consider. We hope to curve our spending habit in the islands after the temptations of the USA. And we are ready for some Island time  - something we have missed while traveling in the United States.And of course, we are looking forward to seeing old friends again too. We would have loved to have spent more time in the Bahamas but with our route now firmly decided (We hope!), it's time to press on. 

Our route from George Town, Great Exuma via, Long Island, Rum Cay and Mayaguana to Sapadillo Bay, Turks and Caicos.

Sailing the 'thorny path' as it is known is not easy. Our journey is directly east into the trade winds. We will inch our way along trying to gain as much east as we can while travelling south, Island hoping as we go.  It sounds easy but a lot of planning goes into where and when and how we will get there. Taking into to consideration what weather we will get, future weather to come, distances we can cover, coral banks we have to cross - needing good day light etc. It will be hard on the wind all the way. My least favourite point of sail!

Saying goodbye to all our good friends in George Town.

We Left Georgetown saying farewells to all our good friends and sailed to the gorgeous Calabash Bay in Long Island. We have met some other boats along the way, who are sailing in the same direction and we loosely tag along together, sharing plans, weather and beers.

The beautiful Calabash Bay at the north end of Long Island.

From Long Island we motored along with 'Exit Stage Left' who have been our companion for the duration so far, to spend a night at Rum Cay - a place I would love to spend more time getting to know but with the rolly anchorage and good weather to press on, we did.

With coral reefs dotted about the anchorage - Rum Cay was a good place to snorkel.

 It was an overnight sail to Mayaguana. One that at first looked like a motor but indeed turned out to be one of those rare, balmy sails with a gentle 10-15kts breeze on a beam reach and a starry sky. We caught two skipjack tunas along the way and entered Abraham's Bay with a morning sun high in the sky so we could see the coral heads as we made our way in. 

A flat calm motor turned into a lovely sail catching a couple of fish along the way.

We spent two nights in Mayaguana the southeastern most Island in the Bahamas before we left for a hard on the wind night sail to Turks and Caicos.

Bye Bye beautiful blue Bahamas - we will miss you.

Seven or eight boats arrived in all to the small anchorage at Sapadillo Bay, Provodencial, the northwestern Island in the Turks and Caicos group. The fee at customs and immigration to stay a week or less is $100 or an extra $300 if you stay longer. Which makes our 3 day stay here an expensive one. We cleared customs and immigration at the dusty commercial port where we spent two hours with all the other boat crews' first waiting for the officers to turn up and then the painfully slow process of filling in the simple immigration forms, all whilst being sleep deprived from the night before. 

Arriving as the sun rises in the Sand Bore Channel to Turks and Caicos and some scenery around the pretty beach.

Except for a beach with a few private villas or small hotels dotted along there is nothing but a dusty road in Sapadillo Bay. It is notoriously expensive here. Sim popped into the petrol station down the road where a tin of corn beef costs $8! So what are a group of thirsty sailors recovering from a night sail supposed to do when they have finished their clearence procedures? Why meet on the beach with our own beers for sundowners of course.

The crews of Exit Stage Left, Pepper, Eureka, Aqua Vida, Sailacious, Vagabond and ourselves. 

We have two more days here, then Monday we will motor across the Caicos banks to put ourselves in a better position to sail on to the Dominican Republic before a strong front arrives on Tuesday afternoon.

Time To Move On

Our time in George Town is drawing to an end, as is our time in the Bahamas. We wish we could stay. There are still so many islands to visit, so many places we wish we could see, so many people we love hanging out with. But time is pressing on and its not such a bad thing to leave a place wishing we could see a little more.

This last month in George Town has flown by. We achieved the work on the boat we set out to do and enjoyed our time here immensely. 

We've been in great company...

We've had enormous fun during the regatta, taking part in some of the festivities and events. 
Like the coconut challenge....

And the variety show..

We have loved all the walks....

And the glorious beaches...

The dazzling sunsets...

And our room with a view...

Walking The Wife...

We are anchored off one of my favourite Islands – Stocking Island in Great Exuma. I know that many have a love/hate relationship with George Town in the Exumas. It is, as many say - a summer camp for grown-ups. With nearly 400 boats in the harbour it is not a place you come to escape the masses. The VHF radio spews out chatter all day long.  There are numerous activities should you wish to join in.  Sim and I aren’t really bothered about participating in a lot of these. But I do like Stocking Island, with all its paths and trails  - and walking is about the only exercise i get these days; especially now that I don’t swim as much as I used to. My fear of sharks has taken over – and don’t even mention the incident with the remora – aka shark sucker! Suffice to say if I’m going to get any exercise it’s going to be on terra firma – I’m such a wimp!

Stocking Island is the barrier island protecting George Town from the Atlantic Ocean

Anyway, Stocking Island is gorgeous. It’s maybe only a third of mile wide at its widest and three and half miles long but it is crisscrossed with paths and trails that all lead to out spectacular beaches. Beautiful Blue Ocean on soft sandy beaches are littered with shells and rocky outcrops. Not to mention the rare living stromatolites – oxygen producing organisms billions of years old that helped complex life develop billions of years ago. I love it.  I honestly don’t think I will ever tire of all the little wonders this island has to offer.

The rare stromatolites found on the windward side of Stocking Island

If I can find a walking buddy, it's the perfect way to have a walk and often, a much needed natter  - another ear to bend other than Sims in our sometimes very insular world. Sim is not always up for going on a walk, he would happily spend days and days and days on the boat without it bothering him at all.  I, on the other hand would go crazy if I am stuck on board for more than a day. So I really appreciate it when he offers (is bribed, manipulated!) to come with me.  I know, he knows that I’d like him to come with me. I know too that his knees sometimes hurt walking on the soft sand. And that he doesn’t quite get as excited about beaches as I do. But he knows that I need to get off the boat and walk, to escape the capsule that is our home.  He calls it 'walking the wife'.  And realizes it’s a good investment to the sanity on board. And I love him for that.

We have had a few walks on Stocking Island this season; on our own or with friends, sometimes taking the kayaks, sometimes not, sometimes having a swim as well. And when asked, I think Sim will tell you that he enjoys 'walking the wife' too!

For a map of the trails on Stocking Island click here

Walking with Sim, Gideon, Brett and Dorothy

Happy as a kid in a candy store.

The area known as 'the baths' where the pools fill and drain - gorgeous on a calm day.

One of the most stunning beaches I have seen....and Ive seen a few!

Another view of the Stromatolites

Sim walking with Brett ang Gideon

Looking south on the windward side

You can almost see that as a water colour.

Sim following shoe tree trail at the north end of Stocking Island

Salt Rock at the top of Monument Hill. It was to let ships know that salt was 

produced here. nb the photo is straight the monument is wonky!

A 'Good' Day In The Life Of Wandering Star.....In The Bahamas

Gorgeous man on the gorgeous beach at Little Bay, Great Guana Cay

I want to share a good day in the life of Wandering Star. We have good days and bad days, boring days and exciting days, frustrating days and happy days just like everyone else. Yesterday was a good day, and mostly a typical day in the life of the crew. A day I enjoyed, and I asked the captain that he said he enjoyed it too.

At 6.30am the alarm goes off and Sim gets out of bed to listen to Chris Parker, our weather man on the single side band radio. This is almost a daily occurrence while we are on the move. We are anchored in Big Major's Spot, the place for the infamous swimming pigs and just around the corner is Staniel Cay with Thunderball Grotto - the caves teeming with fish. But we are not interested in either, we have seen them before. Unbelievably its still too cold for snorkelling, the weather in the Bahamas is very different from last year - they say this is due to an El Nino year. 

The pigs that swim at Big Major's Spot. I have to admit I dont see the appeal.

We were going to stay here for the day, the anchorage is comfortable, the wind has finally clocked around behind the Islands and we are no longer bouncing about like a ship in a storm. Despite a nip in the air, the sun is out and it looks like a lovely day. I feel the need to be out and about. I look around, without a long wet dinghy ride, there are only tiny strips of beaches. I ask Sim if he feels like moving around to Black Point, an island about 8 miles south. 

The anchorage at Black Point, Great Guana Cay, Exuma Islands

Black Point is a popular stop among cruisers because of the Rockside Laundry. A one of a kind laundry offering showers, haircuts, cake and conch fritters as well as some rooms above. Aside from that, it is a quaint, quiet and pretty island. The residents are friendly and welcoming, everyone greets you as you walk by, even the children. I haven't done any laundry since Marsh Harbour and I feel like a walk. Sim agrees, though I can tell he's not fussed either way. But he says there's potential for the anchorage to be uncomfortable so we should go soon and do what we want to do with time to move if need be. He is happy as he pulls out a sail. We have often said it is Sim that likes the sailing and me that loves the destinations. I'm eager to get round there but Sim is happy pottering along at 4kts on just the headsail. He asks me why I live on a boat if I don't like sailing. I do like sailing, I say defiantly. But sometimes it's just so slow, (or scary or uncomfortable). He smiles. It's a good balance, he likes the journey, I like the destinations. 

Dinghies tied up at the goverment dock at Black Point

We pull into Black Point and anchor just off the laundry. But because of the northwest winds it is still pretty bouncy. We gather the laundry together, drop the dinghy and run ashore to the government dock as it looks a better place for leaving the dinghy in these swells. As we tie up we watch a ray scurry for food under the dock. Everyone greets us, a man is hoeing at the side of the road, making pretty beds out of rocks and plants. 

Wandering Star at anchor - its hard to tell from the photo but its quite bouncy out there.

The views between the palm trees out across the bay are of gorgeous turquoise blue as the sun makes a rare appearance. It's gone 11am by the time we get to Dockside Laundry and its already busy. We pile the laundry into two machines and go for a walk while we wait. We intend to take the laundry back to the boat to dry - islands dryers are often expensive because of the cost of electricity and can take a very long time. Two loads of wash only laundry (and a slice of homemade carrot cake) is $9.50.

The quaint but picturesque settlement of Black Point in the Exuma Islands

 As we walk back we can see Wandering Star rolling in the bouncy sea and we agree to move but have not yet decided where to...further into the bay or around the corner to another anchorage? As we get back to the dock the supply ship is docking where all the dinghies are tied up. A man is trying to get them all out the way. Our dinghy line is now under the mooring of the ship. We wait for them to get settled, our dinghy only gently nudged as the rusting beast pulls along side. The ship is loaded with all sorts of stuff, palm trees, jet skis, roofing, soft drinks and food supplies. We should have remembered that the supply ship always arrives on a Thursday.

The supply ship arrives and dinghies are quickly moved out the way...except ours.

Back on the boat, we agree to head around the corner to Little Bay. We dump everything on the floor, start the engine and motor around. It only takes about 1/2 an hour but it makes all the difference. This anchorage is flat and calm, protected from the northerly winds. I hang all the laundry out and Sim makes himself lunch, then I make mine - we almost always make our own lunches. The laundry dries quickly in the breeze. Although surprisingly, despite the sun there is still quite a nip to the air. 

The beautiful beach at Little Bay just around the corner from Black Point.

I persuade Sim that it's a walk on the beach not a nap that he needs and we jump back in the dinghy to go ashore. It's just gorgeous. Rippled sand lies under clear shallow water filled with tiny starfish. Little sand banks are forming as the tide goes out. We walk from one end to the other and round a rocky outcrop. Often wading in the sea that is warmer than the cold air around us. We watch the crews of other boats come ashore to walk their dogs all dressed up in their sailing gear. We often giggle at our lack of proper sailing attire. Apart from our uniform scruffy shorts, tees and flip flops of unnamed brands, we own less sailing clothes now after 12 years of full time sailing than we did when we were land based wannabes. We each have an over a decade old Musto jacket and that's about it. 
I've loved walking on the beach. I always do. Even Sim said he liked this one. The sand firm and hard - not making it difficult for his knees.
We wade back out to the dinghy that we anchored and go back to the boat and shower. It's gone 5pm so we pour ourselves a drink and sit down with our tablets to see what's going on in our cyber world. I flick through the photos from the day and I think to myself - its been a good day.

Sim walking around the rocky outcrops at Little Bay

I'm always happy on the beach

Tiny little starfish litter the sea bed.

We found pretty shells with live inhabitants and plenty of sand dollars too

Stunning beaches at Little Bay - this for me, is what it's all about.

As the sun goes down we go back to the boat. Its been a good day.

Nassau - It's Not Always Paradise In Paradise.

At day break this morning a cold front passed through the anchorage in Nassau

As I write this the wind is howling through the rigging, halyards are rapping constantly on the mast. The noise gnaws at you, filling you with apprehension and unease. You can feel the force of the wind as it whips up the water around us and hurls the boat this way and that. A huge power yacht is holding position along side us, unable to do much else in this wind. We watch as a cruise ship abandons pulling into their snug berth, choosing to ride this one out at sea. We've been up since day break when the front first passed over. This anchorage is notorious for boats dragging and while we have done our best to make sure our own anchor is set in the continually shifting currents and weedy bottom - we can't be so sure about the boats around us. 

Sun up and wind and rain are whipping through the anchorage.

We are in Nassau, New Providence. A place we love to hate. It's the metropolis of the Bahamas. While parts of it are stunning with its glorious beaches and cyrstal clear water's; and the obvious bounties of wealth with mega yachts to one side of us, the famous Atlantis hotel on the other and a line of cruiseships in front of us, you don't have to look far to see what a seedy, crime ridden place this is. Sail boats have been boarded and robbed both in marinas and at anchor. Five minutes walk out of the glitzy cruise ship area with its fake designer shops and tacky souvenir stores, you are clutching your bag a little tighter as you walk past the decrepit and derelict buildings boarded up on Bay Street. The haves and The have nots, living so close, side by side - you can understand why the place is rife with crime. We don't go out at night or leave our dinghy anywhere we can't lock it, we are more alert and vigilant than usual. 

The gorgeous beaches on Paradise Island

We are here for two reasons - 1. My silly seaglass obsession...the beaches are great for little glass treasures. and 2. A cheap wheel of cheese!- lead by our stomachs we bought a huge wheel of Brie here last year for only $10 - sadly they've cottoned on to the pricing error and now, at more than double the price -its no longer the bargain it was but I had to entice Sim somehow.

A king Mackerel - first catch in a year!

We left Eleuthera last Tuesday on a warm balmy day with not much wind and headed towards Nassau. We were fine with a motor, the trip was short, and unlike when we are sailing, we can potter onboard much like when we are at anchor. We threw a line out and almost immediately caught our first fish, the first in an exceedingly long time. A king mackerel, no less - even Sim enjoyed it. We stopped at Rose Island for a swim - the first of the season too, before heading into Nassau Harbour. And for the most part we have been blessed with gorgeous weather. Our friends on Hunda are here, as well as a couple of other boats we know. With the sunny days came the feeling we had finally arrived in the Bahamas especially after all the grey days of the Abacos.

Is it really a hardship to walk on these beaches?if

Now the beaches have been walked, now we've met up with friends and now we know the Brie is no longer available, we are ready to leave. Only we can't because we are playing that old game with the weather. We want to leave but the weather won't allow us. Instead we are stuck in yet another front, the hot balmy days are gone and a cold wind blows down from the north. The skies are grey and overcast. Its most certainly a day for staying onboard.

Dorothy and I go for a walk on Paradise Island

The famous Atlantis hotel

Local boats tied up at the docks

"Letters for the rich, letters for the poor"

Landing the dinghy on a tiny bit of Beach near all the cruise ships

Digging a hole so we can lock the dinghy to a tyre....a deterrent if nothing else.

No one can pass the cruise ship until its docked.

The lighthouse at the end of Paradise Island.

One of the better looking abandoned buildings.

Enjoying an ice cream with Dorothy and Duncan downtown.

Sim blends in well! 

Down on the docks locals sell their wares - conch shells and starfish.

Local boats in the harbour

The local police force.