Showing posts with label Martinique. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Martinique. Show all posts

Monday, December 2, 2013

French Frolicks, Birthday Rainbows & Rolly Nights

Wandering Star searches for that pot of gold - photo Jon Constantine
Thinking fondly of those motionless landlubber days, the boat rolls from side to side.  Everything tumbles one way and then the next.  The full water tanks gurgle and slap.  The halyards spank the mast, the boom swings violently this way then that. Sim and I are tired.  Not just from the constant roll, where even being wedged between cushions still has you thrown about, not just from the constant racket from everything rolling about but also because Sim has been up half the night with food poisoning.  Such a shame as yesterday was his birthday.
 
Fort De France
But up until that point we have had a wonderful few days.  Friday we left St Lucia for French Martinique.  We didn’t intended to stay long but started a day ahead of our traveling companion Jon from SY Imagine of Falmouth so we could do a quick stock up in our favourite French supermarket – Leader Price.  The sail across was super, just enough off the wind to be comfortable.  We anchored off the old fort ruins in Fort De France; another noisy anchorage, this time we were serenaded with the sounds of tribal drums that kicked off some time after 9pm – don’t they know that this is cruisers midnight? I actually quite liked it and for a new anchorage where I normally don’t sleep too well until I become accustomed to where I am – I nodded off like I was one of the dead.  Bright and sprightly we awoke Saturday morning and walked around the shabby metropolis that is Martinique’s capital.  It’s a colourful place, much more modern than other Caribbean islands. It’s an eclectic mix of old and new from designer shops to Chinese bargain basements, modern buildings matched with tired and crumbling shops with wrought iron balconies, well maintained waterfronts to churches in colourful painted squares.
 
Fort De France waterfront
We shopped, watched some kite flyers and then got on our way to meet Jon at St Pierre at the north of the island to stage ourselves for the next leg of our journey north.  I love St Pierre.  It’s not always easy to find a place to anchor and it can roll.  But it is so beautiful.  I never tire of the majestic Mont Pelee – a volcano that caused all that havoc over a century ago destroying the whole town and killing its entire population.  The unpretentious village is scattered around old ruins and charred remains. There is not much not to like.  Though once again we were treated to some more nocturnal clamor – this time it sounds like an out of tune choir practice.
 
St Pierre, Martinique
Alarms were set for 5.30am on Sunday morning – no time for the birthday boy to open any presents or cards – we needed to get underway. Motoring out into a grey morning it looked as if we weren’t going to get much wind.  The squally weather treated us to the most spectacular rainbow – the first of many that morning.  When the wind eventually filled in it was a lot more than expected.  The seas got bigger with huge spumes of water rolling across the decks.  Wandering Star handled very well in what turned out to be a force 6/7, steaming along at 8.5kts. We practiced a little “heave to” exercise while we waited to see if Jon was doing ok with the sudden onslaught of wind. He was.  I can’t quite say that it was an invigorating sail as I was feeling fairly queasy.  For all those who have seen the recent info on plugging your non dominant ear for a sea sickness cure – I don’t think it works – but then maybe I had the wrong ear!  As we approached the lee of Dominica the seas started to calm. We motor-sailed up the coast to Portsmouth at the north end of the island.  
 
Sims birthday rainbow

Dominica is hugely mountainous – it’s the emerald jewel of the Caribbean.  Rolling hills and black sand beaches fringe the anchorage.  That night for Sim’s birthday we had a small BBQ on board Wandering Star before we fell into our rolling bed for a night of fitful sleep.
Colourful Streets in Fort de France
Church Fort de France
Lively street corners
Fort de France anchorage
St Pierre, Martinique
Imagine of Falmouth
Beautiful rainbow
Windy ride
The captain takes the chair!
Lovely sunset Dominica
The birthday boy



Tuesday, June 4, 2013

Rockin' 'n' Rollin' with the Buoys in Grand Anse D'Arlet


Grand Anse D'Arlet
For the last week we have been in Grand Anse D’Arlet, Martinique, a favourite old haunt in a beautiful bay surrounded by green hills and a valley.  It has a quaint little beachfront with a couple of restaurants, small hotels, a dive shop and not a lot else except for a small shop where we can buy our daily baguette.  The snorkeling wasn’t spectacular but you could always guarantee a swim with the turtles, starfish and sand dollars that line the sea bottom.  Sim and I both loved it here.  That was until the introduction of mooring buoys.  In an attempt at marine protection (they say) moorings have been installed (€8 a day – charging to start in about two weeks) across the whole bay.  Anchoring is prohibited with a fine of €900 if caught.  The bay has always suffered from a swell that rolls in around the south end making the north side of the bay uncomfortable.  That said everyone use to tuck up in the south end of the bay.  Now guess where the majority of available moorings are? The few that were placed in the cozy south corner have all been taken by local boats and residents and I guess why not? I would if I lived here.  This last week has been blowing a stink with an ugly swell creeping into the bay.  Boats roll violently, halyards clacking and clinking down the mast; neighbouring boats revealing their barnacled bottoms as they hurl this way and that.  A gentle sway at anchor is a pleasure; even a little rock back and forth doesn’t faze us.  We are hardy to the sea and used to the constant motion that would have the more fragile constitutions dashing for the guardrails.  But this violent motion where one minute through a porthole all you see is sky and the next a rolling sea has me grabbing not just for all the falling bottles and such tumbling around me but for my sanity.  I have said before, it has to be akin to Chinese water torture. We should have maybe left and gone to St Lucia – but it’s been pretty rough out there too.
To add insult to injury the sea that I so love to swim in has been full of stingers and jellyfish. 
So another favourite haunt has been wiped off our list and added to those with a fatter wallet, as have so many places in the Caribbean.

Mooring buoys - Grand Anse D'Arlet
 It’s not been all doom and gloom though.  We have had fun beers ashore with Sam and Jon and a jaunt with a spot of lunch over to the neighbouring fishing village of Anse D’Arlet.  We have had some lovely swims with the sea turtles and over the sunken wreck of (ahem, er, dare I say), a steel boat.  Now the weather looks good to go and I am looking forward to moving on to good old St Lucia.

Grand Anse D'Arlet
A cheeky beer ashore

The waterfront

The turtles

More turtles...
Stuck under boat chain but soon free

sunken wreck under our boat

Fishing Village of Anse D'Arlet next town down
Anse D'Arlet beach front
Mahi Mahi anyone
The village

Flamboyant tree

Ali and Big Ted



Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Ain't No Sunshine



Squally weather
Ain’t no sunshine….by Bill Withers keeps playing in my head, it pretty much sums up this last week. The wind has howled and rain has fallen in biblical proportions, torrents of water falling out of the sky.  Sadly unlike on Alianna we don’t have quite the same systems in place to catch all this water and we watch most of it wash away.  We will work it out eventually but we would like the rain that could flow into our tanks to be clean enough to drink. We are currently trying to devise a pre-filter to collect the bits of grit and dirt that might slip into the tank. It would then pass through another two filters already in place before it comes out of the tap.  We also collect the water that falls from the bimini by clothes pegging the sides up so water runs along a channel and use that for laundry.  To say that we look like a Chinese laundry at the moment wouldn’t be far from the truth!
 
Portsmouth, Dominica
So what a miserable week it has been.  Since Dominica it’s been gray and overcast.  Inside the boat it’s hot and stuffy from keeping the windows permanently closed.  We moved on from Dominica to Saint Pierre at the north end of Martinique.  A long daysail starting at the crack of dawn, but what a difference a more powerful engine makes when you can blast down the sheltered coast at, well any darn speed we like with an 85hp engine! At the end of Dominica we pulled the sails out and turned the engine off but what a ride, what a work out! The wind gusted between 15 and 30kts, rain squalls threatened us every half an hour.  Sails in, sails out, sails in sails out.  There is a fault with the staysail so we haven’t been using that until we can repair it.  Now when we furl the genoa it makes noises that it really shouldn’t be making – it needs an overhaul too….add it to the job list. 
 
Mont Pelee, St Pierre, Martinique
At Jon’s suggestion we decided to stay a couple of days in Saint Pierre, the coastal town at the foot of the majestic Mont Pelee volcano and visit the earth science museum just over 1km out of town.  The Museum was not particularly impressive despite the fact it is supposed to be able to survive if the volcano erupts….again.  But the lengthy subtitled documentary about the devastation Mont Pelee left behind over a century ago killing nearly 30,000 people in less than 3 minutes was very interesting. At that time St Pierre was a major port and all the ships in the bay sadly sunk. One of the rooms in the museum belonged to a French Jack Cousteau type character come sailor/artist/diver – his underwater art work depicts life on the now sunken wrecks. These days there is a much clearer understanding of the volcanic warning signs and Mont Pelee lays dormant unlike like Soufriere smoldering away in neighbouring Montserrat.
 
The French Ladies
On Saturday morning we visited the local market in the covered building on the waterfront.  Bright colourful displays of fruit and vegetables decorate the tables, with large surly French women in wide brimmed hats guarding their produce from plastic chairs. Get a little closer and these scary looking ladies greet you with big smiles and broken English (how do they know we are not French?) welcoming you to come and inspect their wares.  Prices were good and we all stocked up on lots of fresh items.  Next stop the boulangerie for the obligatory pain aux chocolate.
 
Fruit and Veg Market
We moved on together with “Imagine” to Fort De France with more windy rain and squalls. It wouldn’t be right to pass the ultimate cheap French supermarket Leader Price where French cheese, wine and saucisson are available at super cheap prices.  The fridge and freezer are over flowing once again and we are devouring a rather nice gourmet pate and baguette.  Vive La France…!
Sam, Sim and Jon
Saint Pierre Church

Fishermen pulling in their catch

Saint Pierre by night

The Church
Wandering Star in St Pierre anchorage

One of the many wet and windy sails