Frollicking With The Virgins

Deadmans Bay, Peter Island

It would almost be hard to beat the imagery that the Baths evoked with their flawless beaches, caves and grottos.  Maybe this is as close to paradise as we will ever get. But Sim and I have immensely enjoyed what little of the rest of the BVI’s we have seen.  Spending our day’s gunk holing different bays and islands.  Checking out Richard Branson’s own private atoll at Necker Island – no he wasn’t home but he does put out free wifi in his anchorage – how jolly decent of him.  In fact we picked up free wifi almost everywhere.  We visited Tortola and its busy Road Town harbour in the south of the island and then the more peaceful bays of the north.  We toyed with going to Anegada the flat coral island way to the north. But with our limited time we decided just to hang out in the islands to the south of Tortola that help form the protection against the ocean for the Sir Francis Drake Channel.

Anchored in Benures Bay, Norman Island

Peter Island and Norman Island were our islands of choice, though Savannah Bay on Virgin Gorda also hit the spot – I don’t think it would have mattered where we were.  We tried to avoid anchorages full of mooring buoys – as it’s true what they say – the BVI’s are full of charter boats – and they are drawn to these mooring fields like moths to a flame. I’ve never seen so many; all racing to the same destinations trying to squeeze in.  But don’t let them put you off.  Avoid the mooring parks and you avoid the droves. We have had such a wonderful time swimming and snorkelling.  The vibrant underwater world is what the BVI’s are all about with the colourful coral, fish, conchs, rays and turtles - every day it felt like we visited another dimension (perhaps I have been watching too much telly!). The water is every shade of blue, so inviting.  With the stunning scenery above the water and the whole other world below – everyday has felt so precious.  It’s not often we get to live in this utopian state.  I think we both will cherish our time here.

Savannah Bay, Virgin Gorda to ourselves

 

Necker Island

 

The kitty tries to get comfy

 

Busy port of Road Tortola

 

Christmas Tree worms

 

Beautiful shells

 

Hi!

 

Foureyed Butterfly fish

 

Giant sea mammal

 

Damsel fish

 

Flamingo Tongue mollusc

 

Smooth Trunkfish

 

View from Norman Island across to Tortola

 

Sim snorkelling while I beach comb

Deadmans Bay was a favourite

 

Deadmans Bay

 

There are many walks and trails from Deadmans bay

 

The windward side of Peter Island

The Baths & Devils Cay In The BVI'S

Wandering Star at anchor by The Baths, BVI's

Leaving Anguilla late in the afternoon Sim and I had our first overnight sail ever on Wandering Star.  It’s amazing how we have managed to sail up and down the island chain and miss out the onerous night passages.  But the trip to the BVI’s was downwind making it a much more comfortable sail then the hard beat the rest of the eastern Caribbean normally requires. That’s not to say it wasn’t without its discomfort - the beam to swell rolling the boat from side to side and the mainsail occasionally shaking violently down the mast is enough to fray anyone’s nerves. 

The anchorage at Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda

We arrived as the sun rose over Virgin Gorda the following morning after a night of dodging cruise ships.  First Stop was Spanish Town to clear in with Customs and Immigration.  This small group of emerald isles are a salty dogs dream - sailors flock here in their masses to cruise the short distances between the sun flecked islands in seas of the most amazing hues and stretches of sandy white beaches to go with them.  It is a sailors’ paradise. 

The boulders at The Baths

We stayed the night in Spanish town, mooching around the small marina village.  We even spotted Cliff Richard whilst having a quick drink and check of emails in one of the waterfront bars.  The following morning despite not being fully recovered from our lack of sleep from the overnight sail we dragged ourselves out of bed and over to The Baths – the infamous group of beach boulders and caves that play with the sunlight making the whole place look pretty spectacular.  The rocks are volcanic lava left from millions of years ago forming caves pools and grottos to swim, snorkel and frolic in.  When pictures can say a thousand words......